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This page of this website deals with four common problems that people who have built their own desktop PC have encountered. Building your own PC can be turn out to be more expensive if you only buy a single component that is not compatible with the motherboard or is faulty, because, if you don't have spare components to swap out with the components you have installed, the only way to find out which component or components is/are causing the problem would be to take it to a computer repair shop, which can be expensive and would probably wipe out any cost savings you made by building your own computer. You can avoid this most common problem by buying quality components, the most important of which are in this order: RAM memory, power supply unit and motherboard. If you buy a PCI Express x16 graphics card made by AMD or NVIDIA and the motherboard has a free PCI-E x16 slot, you are unlikely to have a compatibility problem, so only a faulty graphics card would need to be replaced. The problem in that case would be that any of the other main components mentioned above could be the cause of the problem, so you would need a spare graphics card in order to be able to eliminate it. RAM memory that is incompatible with the motherboard (some motherboards are very finicky about the memory they will run), is the most common cause of a newly self-build computer not booting the first time it is started up, so always buy quality memory made by a manufacturer such as Crucial from crucial.com (US) or crucial.com/uk (UK). Your country may have its own Crucial website.
Having calculated the benefits and savings to be made by building my own computer, I bought the following components that meet my computing requirements. Although some of them are no longer being sold, they are all brand new.
Motherboard: MSI RS482M2-IL/ L for AMD Socket 939 processors
Processor: AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ dual-core processor
RAM memory: 2GB DDR2 SDRAM - two modules of 1GB each
Video/graphics card: ATI Radeon HD 5670 (Note that the video/graphics card manufacturer, ATI, which was purchased by AMD, is now called AMD.)
Hard disk drive : Samsung 500GB SATA
Case: Midi ATX with a 500W Antec power supply unit.
Monitor: 19" LG widescreen LCD monitor.
Windows 7 Home Premium.
I installed the components in the case (and connected the video card to the monitor) by following the instructions in the motherboard's manual, but when I switched the power on, nothing came to the screen. However, sounds were issued by the processor's cooling unit and the case fan, and the RAM LED on the motherboard lit up. I checked the settings and reseated all of the components, but the computer remained in the same state.
Here is a message from someone else with the same problem: I have just built myself a new PC, but it won't turn on. Nothing comes on, not even a spinning fan. The graphics card and memory were replaced by the supplier, but there's still no startup. I can't even bring up the BIOS. Do you have any troubleshooting advice that I can try, because I have tried everything I can think of, such as removing and reseating the components and making sure that the motherboard is completely separated from the case, etc? Needless to say, I made sure that the switch on the power supply unit was set to the on position and that the voltage selector on the power supply was set to the UK not the US voltage.
This is the nightmare scenario of the PC builder who doesn't have access to many spare components that can be swapped with those installed, because any of the following major components that have a fault that makes them unusable can cause a failed startup of this kind - the motherboard, the power supply, the RAM memory. The processor, graphics card (or integrated graphics chip on the motherboard) and hard disk drive(s) are not the cause of a no-startup problem, because even if they aren't working or installed, the fans and the processor's cooler should be working.
Be aware that a loose screw can be wedged between the motherboard and the case or an unused stand-off screw (riser) that are used to screw the motherboard to the case can short the motherboard.
A process of elimination will have to be used to discover what the cause of the problem is. The first thing I would do if the RAM memory is not made by a major manufacturer is buy Crucial memory. If you run the Crucial Memory Advisor on another computer you can find out which memory configurations it provides for your make/model of motherboard. Crucial guarantees that its memory will work with motherboards that it provides memory for or your money is refunded, so that's the best place to buy it. I myself once had this problem and it was solved by replacing the no-brand memory supplied with the motherboard for Crucial memory. Some motherboards can be very finicky about the make of RAM that they will work. That is why the major motherboard manufacturers provide information on their websites about memory that has been tested as being compatible with their motherboards.
To begin, disconnect the components connected to the power supply unit and take all of the components out of the case, including the motherboard. Remove all of the components plugged into the motherboard (memory modules, processor cooler and processor and place the motherboard on an antistatic bag or a cardboard box, which insulates it. Note that if you aren't familiar with installations, you should memorise or make a note of how everything is connected so that you can perform the reconnections correctly. Connect the 24-pin plus of the power supply, which is no longer in the case, to the motherboard, connect at least one case fan and plug in the speaker connector, if there is one, from the case. To connect the case speaker, you'll have to slide the case close enough to the motherboard.
Turn the computer on, either by connecting the cable from the power-on button in the front of the case to its connection point on the motherboard (two pins), or by shorting those power pins with the tip of a screwdriver. Don't worry, the power-on button creates the short that switches the computer on. You are just doing that with the tip of the screwdriver, which is insulated by its handle.
If the fans work, you can be reasonably sure that the motherboard and power supply are functioning properly. If they don't, the problem is with the power supply or the motherboard. You might as well continue checking to make sure everything else is working properly. Switch the power supply off by using its on-off switch and install the processor, attach its heatsink and fan cooler and turn the power supply on.
If nothing happens, the problem is probably with the motherboard or power supply, but if the fans work, everything should be all right.
If you hear any beeping sounds that are produced by the BIOS setup program and are called BIOS beep codes, the motherboard's manual should tell what they mean. If not use the term bios beep codes in a search engine to find out what they mean for the make of BIOS being used by the motherboard.
The free Belarc Advisor creates an analysis of the hardware and software on a personal computer. Under Main Circuit Board, it tells you the make of BIOS being used. This is what it says about the BIOS of the laptop I was using: BIOS: American Megatrends Inc [AMI]. A1034IMS V1.70 10/19/06 10/19/2006. This means that it is an AMI BIOS, so I would look up the beep codes for an AMI BIOS. Knowing what the beep code being issued means should tell you what the source of the problem is. If it indicates that there is no graphics card or memory installed, this will be dealt with as you continue the troubleshooting.
Plug just one RAM memory module into the first DIMM memory slot of motherboard. Note that the motherboard user manual tells you which memory slots slots can be used for different memory configurations, such as the slots that can be used for dual-channel mode of operation, and which slots can be used by a single module, etc. If the computer works, install the other memory module. If it works, everything is working as it should. If it doesn't, you've probably got a problem with the RAM. The memory might not be compatible with the motherboard or it might be faulty. If you have another desktop computer that runs the same type of memory, you can try using it one module at a time in that computer. If not and you haven't purchased Crucial memory, as advised earlier, you should do so.
If the motherboard provides an integrated graphics chip that provides the graphics instead of a dedicated graphics card, connect the monitor to its port on the motherboard. Otherwise, install the graphics card into its PCI Express x16 slot and connect its power cables as they were before you disconnected them. (At this stage, the processor and its cooling unit are already installed. You don't need a hard disk drive installed.) Turn the computer on as before. Now that you have a graphics card connected, you should be able to see the first boot up screen and be able to enter the BIOS by pressing its entry key (Del, F1, etc.) as indicated on that screen to enter Setup. If nothing happens, the memory is probably the cause of the problem. If you hear beeps, which will be produced by the case speaker that the BIOS can use before the operating system loads, not by the sound card or integrated soind chip, find out what the BIOS code means. If doing that doesn't work, move the RAM module to a different slot and try again. Repeat this for each DIMM slot in the motherboard until one works. If you get nothing, try using your other memory module.
Following the procedure outlined here will usually get things working. The two main culprits are usually faulty or incompatible memory and a faulty power supply, but a dead motherboard is also fairly common. This problem can be difficult to solve because you have to swap out those components with alternatives until you have a working system. If the motherboard is dead, you could replace the power supply and memory and still not have a working system, but you will also have to replace the motherboard if using alternative memory and power supply are not found to be responsible.
August 9, 2005. - BartPE (Bart's Preinstalled Environment) is a free utility that allows you to create a bootable Windows XP CD that loads its essential files into RAM memory and operates from the CD completely independently of an installed version of Windows, allowing you to troubleshoot and repair an ailing installation of Windows.
BartPE is a wizard-style utility that runs on Windows 2000/XP/Server 2003. It automates most of the creation of a bootable copy of Windows on a recordable CD or DVD. The utility assembles the correct files and settings. You must provide a Windows XP (SP1 or later) installation/setup CD, because the files are copied from it.
The utility's creator, Bart Lagerweij, says that it is possible to use a preinstalled version of Windows XP (without a CD) as a source for building a copy of BartPE.
Bart says, it's "... a complete Win32 environment with network support, a graphical user interface (800x600) and FAT/NTFS/CDFS file system support. Very handy for burn-in testing systems with no OS, rescuing files to a network share, virus scan and so on. This will replace any DOS bootdisk in no time!"
Instruction 2. on the page provided below reads as follows: "Start PE Builder (pebuilder.exe). At the main PE Builder dialog, enter the source path to your original Windows XP/2003 Installation/Setup CD. You can use the "..." button to navigate. If your Windows XP is not integrated with service pack 1 or 2, you must slipstream your files first. Please read Slipstreaming files from the help files to do this."
Clicking that last link leads to some confusing information. Click here! to go to information on this site on how to slipsteam Windows XP.
For more information on the utility and how to use it to create the bootable CD visit Bart's Preinstalled Environment (BartPE) bootable live windows CD/DVD. - http://www.nu2.nu/pebuilder/
When I followed the instructions, the utility created an ISO file called pebuilder.iso and installed it in the folder it created for itself during its installation. But after the ISO file was created, the CD writer's drawer opened and then closed before I could take the Windows CD out and replace it with a CD-R disc. The utility tried to burn the ISO file to the Windows CD, but couldn't because it is a CD-ROM disc. The utility left a message saying that the burning had failed. At the bottom of the list of what it had done there was another message saying that there was one error, press the << and >> to go to it. The message warned that the file name for an ISO file should not exceed 31 characters or a buffer overrun could result. There was no option to enter a file name, it used its own name for the ISO file, so it made no sense to me. To burn the ISO file to a CD-R disc, I opened Nero Express, chose the option to burn a Disk Image, chose the file type that had iso in it, and the ISO burned to the CD-R disk, which could be run from within Windows, or be used as a boot CD if the CD-ROM drive was set as the first boot device in the BIOS.
If you boot the system with the BartPE CD, you can run the programs installed on the hard drive, but you have to enter the registration details for those programs that require them, because the boot CD hasn't loaded Windows, just its own files and its collection of Windows files into RAM memory, not on to the hard drive. Therefore, the programs behave as if they haven't been registered. By loading its files into RAM, the boot CD allows you to test the hard drive. You'll also know soon enough if the RAM is at fault if the BIOS can be accessed, but the boot process fails.
I have built a computer around an Epox EP-8RDA3 motherboard, but, having read the manual and double-checked all of the settings, nothing happened when I switched it on for the first time. The AMD Athlon XP 2600+ processor's fan worked, and the motherboard's onboard diagnostic LED showed the letters FF. There were no beeping noises and the LED lights on the front of the case didn't work. I noticed that the power supply in the case has "Designed for Pentium 4" printed on it. The processor is an Athlon XP 2600+, so I want to know if installing the wrong motherboard and processor is the cause of the failure of the computer to boot.
Intel asked manufacturer's to add an extra four-pin connector to the power supplies used for its Pentium 4 processors in order to improve the stability when motherboards draw large amounts of power. Pentium-4-compatible PSUs are often known as ATX12V, because the extra connector supplies an additional 12V to the motherboard. But, in every other respect, these power supplies comply fully with the ATX 2.0 specifications, and can be used with other makes of processor. The extra connector is not used with them, that's all.
The secondary ATX motherboard power connectorMotherboards have required to be powered a secondary power connector since about 2005. It was a 4-pin connector for a long time, but new motherboards now require an 8-pin connector. Most 8-pin auxiliary power connectors can be split into two 4-pin connectors so that they can be used with an older motherboard that supports the ATX 1.3 power standard. If you visit the following webpage and click on the motherboard, you will be able to click on the large version that is presented and the area you have clicked on will produce a magnification of that area of the board. The 8-pin auxiliary power connector is in the top right-hand corner and the main 24-pin connector is in the middle of the bottom section under the four memory slots. GA-Z68XP-UD3P Socket LGA1155 motherboard for Intel's second-generation Core i3, i5, i7 processors - http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3912#ov |
You don't mention the make and model of the power supply, which is as important as the makes of the motherboard and RAM, because many cheap power supplies do not give an adequate supply of power on all of the output circuits. For instance, some cheap power supplies labelled as being 400W can provide lower combined outputs than quality 300W power supplies.
By studying the detailed specifications of the power supply (if you can find them), you can often discover that although the +12V and +5V circuits are adequate individually, the combined output of the two circuits often has an upper limit that is inadequate. That is why it's always best to make sure that the power supply is made by a well known manufacturer such as Antec, Enermax, and Sparkle - and that it is recommended for use with a particular processor.
Most inadequate PSUs will at least boot successfully. That is, they will complete the Power-On-Self-Test (POST) procedure, but will tend to cause system crashes when the system is running and stressed.
The motherboard's diagnostic LED is working and therefore indicates that the 5V supply is good, and the processor's fan is run by the 12V supply.
A floppy disk drive's ribbon cable connected the wrong way round can prevent a computer from booting, but RAM installed improperly will usually result in beeps being emitted if the case speaker is connected to the motherboard. The motherboard's diagnostic LED should also provide an indication of what's wrong. The translation of the codes will be provided in the motherboard's manual.
In case it's being shorted by something, you should remove the motherboard from the case. With the LED cables still connected, place it on a non-conductive material, such as the packet it came sealed in, and try powering it up with just the processor, RAM, and heatsink and fan unit installed. [Never power up a computer unless the cooling unit is properly fitted to the processor.] Don't connect the hard disk, CD/DVD, or floppy drives.
If taking the above actions don't show you what's wrong, you could try clearing the BIOS/CMOS memory. There is usually a jumper on the motherboard that you set to clear it. Click here! to go to relevant information about doing so on the BIOS section of this website.
If none of the above solves the problem, a home user can do further testing by installing the components in another computer on by one, or by swapping them with known good ones one by one, starting with the PSU. If you purchased all of the components from one supplier, you could ask for permission to send them all back so that the supplier can find out where the fault lies.
A computer enthusiast has built a computer from the parts left over from several upgrades, all of which were working when last used. However, he cannot install Windows. He has tried installing Windows 95, 98, and XP. When trying to install Windows 95, some of the files - msjstick.drv, vjoyd.vxd, msmpu401.drv, msmpu401.vxd, etc. - could not be found by the installer program. Windows 95 did install eventually, but could only boot into Safe mode, and, even then, after a few seconds error messages came up such as, "A fatal error has occurred in VXD VMM (01) + 00003AF. The current application will be terminated."
Failures to install Windows from its CD are almost always caused by problems with the RAM memory or other hardware problems.
The first action you should take is to make sure that the settings for the RAM on the motherboard match the type and speed of RAM installed on it. The motherboard's manual should supply that information. If you don't have a manual, identify the motherboard and download a manual from its manufacturers site. If necessary, visit the RAM page on this site for links to hardware and software identification utilities, which can identify the motherboard.
The following free utilities can test your system's RAM, which must be operating 100% all of the time or serious data corruption and/or system failures (that can be very difficult to track down) will occur.
Microsoft Windows Memory Diagnostic tool - with full instructions on how to use it. - http://oca.microsoft.com/en/windiag.asp
Memtest86 - latest version - http://www.memtest86.com/ and http://www.memtest.org/.
If necessary, buy new RAM. Crucial sells the best memory directly with free shipping from its site on a system and motherboard basis.
Other less likely causes are: a faulty power supply unit, a faulty motherboard, or read errors produced by an elderly CD-ROM drive.
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